Lobster

In my first WW blog I mentioned Julie and Julia, which is just a thoroughly enjoyable book and movie, foodie or not.  I love the lobster killing scene especially.  Does that make me a bad person?  Oh well.  Making Julia Child’s lobster thermidor is not your usual weeknight endeavor.  Between finding the lobster, cooking and cleaning them, trying to make sure you’ve kept the right internal organs, and assembling the dish, you’re talking about several hours of work.  (I’ve done it twice without ingesting enough of the wrong internal organs to suffer any adverse consequences, so I don’t worry about it too much.  I mean really, who has time to perfectly distinguish between sand sacks and coral matter?)  So this weekend rent yourself a copy of the movie, sing along with “Psycho Killer” by Talking Heads, and enjoy some buttery goodness.

Serves 6

Tools and Ingredients

·         Covered, enameled or stainless steel kettle with tight-fitting cover or stainless steel saucepan

·         4-cup enameled or stainless steel saucepan

·         1 1/2-quart enameled saucepan

·         Wooden spoon

·         Wire whip

·         3-quart mixing bowl

·         12-inch enameled or stainless steel skillet

·         Shallow roasting pan or fireproof serving platter

·         3 cups dry white wine or 2 cups dry white vermouth

·         2 cups water

·         1 large onion, thinly sliced

·         1 medium carrot , thinly sliced

·         1 stalk celery, thinly sliced

·         6 sprigs parsley

·         1 bay leaf

·         1/4 tsp. thyme

·         6 peppercorns

·         1 Tbsp. fresh or dried tarragon

·         3 live lobsters, 2 pounds each

·         1/2 pound sliced fresh mushrooms

·         1 Tbsp. butter

·         1 tsp. lemon juice

·         1/4 tsp. salt

·         5 Tbsp. butter

·         6 Tbsp. flour

·         1 Tbsp. cream

·         1 Tbsp. dry mustard

·         2 egg yolks

·         1/2 cup whipping cream

·         4 to 6 Tbsp. more whipping cream

·         Pinch cayenne pepper

·         4 Tbsp. butter

·         1/3 cup cognac

·         1/2 cup grated Parmesan or Swiss cheese

·         2 Tbsp. butter, cut into bits

Directions

Steaming the lobsters: Simmer wine, water, vegetables, herbs, and seasonings in the kettle for 15 minutes. Then bring to a rolling boil and add the live lobsters. Cover and boil for about 20 minutes. The lobsters are done when they are bright red and the long head-feelers can be pulled from the sockets fairly easily.

While the lobsters are steaming, stew the mushrooms slowly in the covered saucepan with the butter, lemon juice, and salt for 10 minutes.

The sauce: When the lobsters are done, remove them from the kettle. Pour the mushroom cooking juices into the lobster steaming juices in the kettle and boil down rapidly until liquid has reduced to about 2 1/4 cups. Strain into the 4-cup enameled or stainless steel saucepan and bring to the simmer.

Cook the butter and flour slowly together in the 1 1/2-quart saucepan for 2 minutes without browning. Off heat, beat in the simmering lobster-cooking liquid. Boil, stirring, for 1 minute. Set aside. Film top of sauce with the cream.

Split the lobsters in half lengthwise, keeping the shell halves intact. Discard sand sacks in the heads, and the intestinal tubes. Rub lobster coral and green matter through a fine sieve into the mixing bowl, and blend into it the mustard, egg yolks, cream, and pepper. Beat the sauce into this mixture by driblets.

Return the sauce to the pan, and stirring with a wooden spoon, bring it to the boil and boil slowly for 2 minutes. Thin out with tablespoons of cream. Sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon fairly heavily. Taste carefully for seasoning. Set aside, top filmed with a spoonful of cream.

Sautéing the lobster meat: Remove the meat from the lobster tails and claws, and cut it into 3/8-inch cubes. Set the skillet with the butter over moderate heat. When the butter foam begins to subside, stir in the lobster meat and sauté, stirring slowly, for about 5 minutes until the meat has turned a rosy color. Pour in the cognac and boil for a minute or two, shaking the skillet, until the liquid has reduced by half.

Final assembly: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Fold the cooked mushrooms and two thirds of the sauce into the skillet with the lobster meat. Arrange the split lobster shells in the roasting pan. Heap the lobster mixture into the shells; cover with the remaining sauce. Sprinkle with cheese and dot with butter. The recipe may be prepared ahead up to this point and refrigerated.

Place in upper third of 425-degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until lobster is bubbling and the top of the sauce is nicely browned. Serve immediately on a platter or serving plates.